16 Tips for Building a Two-Story Addition

December 27th, 2011

Homeowners who might have tried to sell their houses a few years ago are staying put with the hope that they’ll fetch a higher price if they wait out the bad economy. In the meantime, some are making their homes more comfortable by adding rooms—downstairs and up.

Harvard University’s Joint Center for Housing Studies notes that homeowners are redirecting their remodeling dollars away from kitchen and bath remodels, room additions, and interiors. But pros in some areas are still doing a brisk business in two-story additions, often to enlarge a kitchen, add a home office, or build a tricked-out master suite that’s separate from the rest of the family’s bedrooms.

That project is among the most expensive of remodeling undertakings, so contractors are taking care to add value to the home as they add space. Here are 16 tips from pros who are successfully building up and out:

–Use the existing house as inspiration for the addition. Installing a different style of siding, roofing, and windows on the addition will make it obvious that the new rooms were not built as part of the original house.

“It’s like putting zebra stripes on a tiger,” says architect JP Ward of Anthony Wilder Design/Build in Cabin John, Md. Atlanta builder Kevin Buckley of Kevin Buckley Builders agrees: “You see it all the time. It looks like they just tacked that addition onto the end of the house, like a caboose.”

–Duplicate architectural elements from the main house in both the interior and exterior of the addition—on both floors—to create a sense of unity between old and new. In a home with a bay window and window seat in the existing living room, Ward designed a similar area in the new family room.

–Mismatched windows are a telltale sign that part of the house has been added on. Choose windows in the same style and material—or at least a lookalike material—as the ones on the original structure. Keep the sill lines even on both structures.

–Blend the new flooring with the old. Ward notes that the rich-but-worn look of old hardwood floors is hard to replicate with brand-new material.

–You can also make an addition “match” the rest of the house by remodeling parts of the existing structure so it includes some of the addition’s modern touches. Buckley did this to a brick home whose owner wanted board-and-batten shake siding on the two-story addition. He re-sided a pair of dormers on the opposite end of the house, too, so the facade looks balanced and the addition appears to be part of the original structure.

–Likewise, try to replicate the addition’s up-to-date structural, safety, and energy-efficiency improvements in the older part by suggesting that the homeowner bring the whole house—and not just the addition, as required—up to code.

–Incorporate modern materials that look authentic and match the main house but that are engineered to last longer, hold up better to harsh weather, and require less maintenance. Buckley has installed high-end, solid-core fiberglass doors and textured fiber-cement siding that he says look as much like wood as the years-old material on the rest of the home.

–Convince your clients to upgrade the HVAC. An air-conditioning unit that’s properly sized for the original structure will not perform well if you add more than about 30 square feet to the house. Buckley says most of his clients resist replacing their existing units because of the cost, but that their homes are usually uncomfortably humid later if they don’t—especially if the two-story addition includes an unconditioned garage under new living quarters.

–Consider the “flow” of the house. “This is a very big deal,” notes Ward. “We put a lot of effort into making sure [the layout of the house] still makes sense” once it has an addition, “so you don’t have to go to the middle of the living room to get to the new kitchen.” Sometimes, Ward notes, that means reallocating the space in rooms besides the ones you’re adding on.

–Step the addition forward or back a few feet from the original part to avoid turning the building into a big rectangle, advises Buckley. “It makes for a profile that’s interesting to look at, rather than one gigantic box.” Likewise, making the addition’s roof line a bit lower than the roof on the main house can make it easier to flash, notes Paul Ledoux, owner of Wildwood Home Remodeling in Albuquerque.

–Still, the trusses between floors should line up precisely, Ledoux says. Otherwise, the floors and ceilings of the addition won’t even out with those of the original structure.

–Plan for a large staircase. If you’re lucky, notes Ledoux, the home’s existing staircase is located close enough to the two-story addition that a new one isn’t needed. If a new staircase is needed, however, it’s likely to take up more space than the homeowner might want.

–Remove existing walls to create larger rooms. Ward notes that an addition can do more than add rooms; it can transform the small, separate kitchen, dining room, and living room into a single, spacious, open area for cooking, socializing, and watching TV. Vaulted ceilings are popular for additions for the same reason.

Consider alternative framing members for large spans on two-story additions. Buckley says lightweight steel beams are thinner than I-joists or engineered LDL beams and have saved him from exceeding height restrictions. Using thicker framing members, he says, has created problems with head clearance at the top of staircases because the thicker product raises the thickness of the floor.

–If the addition leaves the backyard too small for a good-size deck, build the deck on the side of the house instead. Ward says three-quarters of his clients who ask for an addition off the back of the house also want a deck.

–Educate the homeowner about zoning restrictions. Many clients ask for additions that are larger than local laws allow because they are unaware of regulations restricting them from building too close to the property line or covering too high a percentage of the lot. Some communities have height restrictions for multiple-story additions as well.

By Sharon O’Malley, contributing editor to Building Products magazine and its website, ebuild.com

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Report: Foreclosures don’t significantly reduce housing consumption

December 10th, 2011

Despite the recent flood of foreclosures on residential mortgages, little is known about what happens to borrowers and their households after their mortgage has been foreclosed. A Federal Reserve Board of Governors studied the post-foreclosure experience of U.S. households using a unique dataset based on the credit reports of a large panel of individuals from 1999 to 2010. The results suggest that, on average, foreclosure does not impose an economic burden large enough to severely reduce housing consumption.

For example, if post-foreclosure households tend to rent their subsequent housing, the flood of foreclosures could signal a substantial increase in the demand for rental units. Since rental and owner-occupied housing units tend to be different types of structures in the United States, this shift in demand could alter the type of residential structures in the economy. Beyond their impact on housing markets, foreclosures can influence personal finance, family structure, employment opportunities, the quality of available schooling and many other dimensions of an individual’s economic and social welfare.

In summary, the majority of post-foreclosure migrants do not end up in substantially less-desirable neighborhoods or more crowded living conditions. Since housing unit quality is highly correlated with neighborhood amenities or desirability, they are not likely to live in considerably lower quality homes than they did before.

By Mary Beth Nevulis, HousingZone Contributing Editor

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Census report: More ‘doubled-up’ households impacting economy

December 5th, 2011

More people are living with family amid high unemployment rates and a slow economy, but while the phenomenon is keeping the poverty rate lower, it has wider negative economic consequences, according to the Wall Street Journal’s blog.

The Census Bureau noted a big jump in the number of individuals and families doubling up. Census says 69.2 million, or 30 percent, were doubled-up in 2011, up from 61.7 million adults, or 27.7 percent, in 2007. “Doubled-up” households include at least one person 18 or older who isn’t enrolled in school and isn’t the householder, spouse or cohabiting partner of the householder.

Much of the increase comes from young people, ages 25-34, living with their parents. Some 5.9 million, or 14.2 percent of 25-to-34 year olds, lived with their parents in 2011, up from 4.7 million before the recession.

“These young adults who lived with their parents had an official poverty rate of only 8.4 percent, since the income of their entire family is compared with the poverty threshold,” David Johnson chief of the Housing and Household Economic Statistics Division at the U.S. Census Bureau said. “If their poverty status were determined by their own income, 45.3 percent would have had income falling below the poverty threshold for a single person under age 65.”

Fewer households means fewer consumers for businesses desperate for demand. (You don’t need to buy a new TV if you can just use mom and dad’s.) At the same time, it continues to drag on a housing market that needs to burn off excess supply.

By Mary Beth Nevulis, Housing Zone Contributing Editor

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Biggest Boomer Towns

November 28th, 2011

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The boomer generation, spawned (literally) in the aftermath of the Second World War, will continue to shape the American landscape well into the 21st Century. They may be getting older, but these folks are still maintaining their power. Those born in the first ten years of the boomer generation  — between 1945 and 1955 — number 36 million, and they will continue to influence communities and real estate markets across the country, especially as they contemplate life after kids and retirement.

Much has been written about where “empty nesters” might move as their children move off on their own. One longstanding favorite is the notion that, having jettisoned their children, the boomers will also desert their suburban communities for the bright city lights.

Unfortunately for developers — some of whom have invested heavily in high-end housing for urbanizing “empty nesters” — the actual data do not support this thesis. Indeed, our analysis of migration by this cohort in the past 10 years shows a 10.3% decline among core city dwellers, a loss of some 1.3 million people over the past decade. For this analysis, Forbes, with the help of demographer Wendell Cox, looked at population numbers from the Census for boomers aged 45 to 54 in 2000 and compared them with the numbers for those ages 55 to 64 in 2010.

These population changes include reductions due principally to deaths. Census data do not include mortality information. This cohort lost 3.2% of its population over the 10 years. This would only marginally reduce the changes between 2000 and 2010, while the scale of differences between the metropolitan areas would be identical.

So where are these surviving boomers settling as they enter their likely extended golden years?  The results may surprise urban boosters who have confidently expected them to flock downtown.

To be sure, a few of the highly affluent — the ones mentioned in the mainstream media — may purchase homes, or pied-à-terres, in places like Manhattan, Chicago’s Gold Coast or San Francisco. But these areas actually have suffered an exodus of boomers over the past decade. In our ranking of the 51 largest metros in the U.S., the urban cores of San Jose, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Chicago scored near the bottom, suffering double-digit percentage losses of boomers. According to the last Census, New York’s urban core, which the Daily News suggested is packed with aspiring seniors, lost 12% of boomers in their mid-50s to mid-60s  — or about 274,000 people.

Over the past three years  you could blame this loss on the economy, which has postponed retirements brought home many of the boomers’ young, largely unemployed or underemployed children back to the suburban homestead. Or you can credit it to more active lifestyles among boomers who appear to working later than ever. According to a Careerbuilder.com survey, over 60% of workers over 60 indicated they are postponing retirement.

Yet perhaps something more profound is at work here. An analysis of those who were 55 to 65 in 2000 and 65 to 75 in 2010 reveals an even stronger anti-urban bias, with an over 12% drop in city dwellers. Since these folks are far less likely to have kids at home and more properly retired, this cohort’s behavior suggests that aging boomers are if anything less likely to move to the cities in the next decade.

Indeed, if boomers do move, notes Sandi Rosenbloom, a noted expert on retirement trends and professor of Planning and Civil Engineering at the University of Arizona, they tend to move to less dense and more affordable regions. The top cities for aging boomers largely parallel those that appealed to the “young and restless” in our earlier survey. The top ten on our list are all affordable, generally low-density Sun Belt metros:

1. Las Vegas, Nev.
2. Phoenix, Ariz.
3. Tampa-St. Petersburg, Fla.
4.Orlando, Fla.
5.Riverside-San Bernardino, Calif.
6.Raleigh, N.C.
7.Austin, Texas
8.San Antonio, Texas
9. Jacksonville, Fla.
10.Charlotte, N.C.-S.C.

But according Sandi Rosenbloom, a noted expert on retirement trends and a professor of planning and civil engineering at the University of Arizona, most boomers are staying put, largely in the suburbs they settled in decades ago.  The propensity to move, she points out, starts to drop precipitously as people leave their early 30s. Roughly 1 in 3 people in their 20s move in a given year; by the time they enter their 40s, that figure slides to about 1 in 10. As people age into their 50s and beyond, the percentage drops to roughly 5%, or 1 in 20.

“The boomers are staying put more than anyone thought,” Rosenbloom says. “People of that generation tend to own their own homes and stay there. The idea that they are moving to the city really comes from the wishful thinking school of planning.”

The recession has exacerbated this stay-at-home trend. The number of people moving is at its lowest level since the early 1960s. When boomers do decide to move, Rosenbloom notes, they do so largely for prosaic reasons, such as being closer to children or, more important, grandchildren.

Others succumb to the temptation to cash out expensive housing in metros like New York, Los Angeles, the Bay Area or Boston for less costly residences in Sun Belt locales. Housing in and around these core cities, particularly in attractive neighborhoods, Rosenbloom adds, are simply too expensive for the vast majority of budget-conscious seniors.

Much of this also has to do with the lifestyle preferences of both boomers and seniors, which appear far different than those put forth by urban pundits. People over 55 that Rosenbloom has interviewed usually express a preference to stay or relocate in places that are less crowded and congested. Furthermore, most are reluctant to give up their cars, and many are less able to walk than drive. This may explain why most retirement communities end up on the urban fringe or farther.

This trend — which Rosenbloom has also encountered in the U.K., Australia, Canada and New Zealand — is also reflected by the growing shift to smaller towns and cities among both aging boomers and seniors. The “young and restless” may head to suburbs, particularly in the lower-cost Sun Belt cities, but some older Americans appear headed to even less densely populated regions. Over the past decade over 1 million aging boomers and seniors moved to more smaller cities and rural locations from suburban or urban locations.

What do these trends suggest for the future of our communities and real estate? For one, the big opportunities for selling to aging boomers will remain primarily in the suburbs and some select more rural locations. We also can expect the new senior citizens to move to more affordable places close to their children.

These findings do provide some long-term hope for the housing market, particularly in suburbs. Leading demographers have been busy predicting a massive drop-off in single-family homes as boomers retire and their children leave. Yet our analysis on the Census reveals that most boomers — as well as those older than them — are staying in the suburbs a lot longer than expected. Many will likely to stay in their homes and old neighborhoods well into their 70s or even 80s, leaving either their home either in an ambulance or to an assisted living facility.

Developers and planners anxious to service aging boomers should, instead of building downtown towers, address the needs of this generation precisely where they now live and are likely to stay. This could include adding to new residential options in the suburbs to enlivening local shopping districts while boosting senior services in everything from recreation and public safety to health care. As the rock and roll generation heads toward its dotage, both business and communities need to adjust their strategies based not on fantasies but on the realities so clearly evidenced by the Census.

This piece originally appeared at Forbes.com.

Joel Kotkin is executive editor of NewGeography.com and is a distinguished presidential fellow in urban futures at Chapman University, and an adjunct fellow of the Legatum Institute in London. He is author of The City: A Global History. His newest book is The Next Hundred Million: America in 2050, released in February, 2010.

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The Retirement-Ready House

November 21st, 2011

When Ronald Knecht began house hunting two years ago, he had a promise to keep. Before his wife passed away from a battle with cancer, she had asked him to move to Nokesville, Va., to be close to their daughter so that the two could look after each other. But at 73 years old and having just watched his wife go from healthy to a walker to a wheelchair, he wasn’t looking for just anything.

What he found was a whole lot of old mansions, “99% of which were junk,” he says. With too many stairs and maintenance issues that would have been unthinkable. Beyond that, he was looking for efficiency. “The Realtors wanted to show you the granite in the kitchen. I wanted to go to the basement, and when you’re looking at daylight through the band boards, there’s no way you can possibly heat that house.”

After months of searching, Knecht decided to have one built. Working with Golden Rule Builders, a local green builder that had experience with universal design, Knecht spent the next few months extensively researching accessible design. Together, what he and Golden Rule came up with is the equivalent of a super-house. Ultra efficient, universally designed to a T, and virtually maintenance free, evidence of careful research and planning is everywhere.

Driving in, the garage is extra wide, with a 9-foot door to accommodate lift-equipped vehicles. The bumped-out walls provide enough space on either side for someone in a wheelchair to get out comfortably. “That was something my wife always hated,” Knecht says, “when I would have to make her get out in the rain and wheel her inside because the garage was too small.”

Paths leading up to the home are 6-feet across, allowing enough room for a wheelchair and another person to approach the home side-by-side. At the front entry, the plan includes a small shelf for packages, so that it isn’t necessary to bend over to pick parcels up from the ground—one of the many features Knecht insists would be useful to anyone, whether or not they have full mobility. “Who wouldn’t want a shelf by the door when you’re coming home with groceries and kids and you got a purse and keys to deal with?”

And then there is the door itself. “A lot of builders will throw in a 32-inch door and call themselves universal design, but that’s useless if you can’t operate the door handle,” says Anthony Palladino, building designer at Golden Rule Builders. Beyond using levered handles or specialized knobs, he says, a home’s design needs to include at least 18 inches of clear space on the pull side of the door to ensure that a wheelchair or a person on crutches can get up to the side of the door and make it through comfortably. “I was working with [a universal design specialist], and you wouldn’t believe how many mothers call her saying that their kids with sports injuries can’t get through the front door,” Knecht says.

Inside, the entire kitchen is tailored with accessibility features that encourage mobility without looking institutional. Counters sit at 34 inches, with space underneath so they can be accessed from a seated position. Space is also cutout underneath the cooktop, which features knobs at the front of the unit covered by a panel that prevents children from accessing them. Kickspaces are 9 inches high and 6 inches deep, to accommodate wheelchairs. And all light switches, outlets, and thermostats sit at a 44-inch height.

Bathrooms are fitted with out-turning doors and low-in showers. Counters, set at 34 inches, have free space underneath to make them wheelchair accessible. To make up for the lack of undercounter cabinetry, each bathroom is fitted with a closet accessed through bi-fold doors.

In the bedrooms, closet bars can be set at multiple heights, not only to adjust for someone in a wheelchair, but also so that they can be made available to a child and then adjusted for height as the child grows.

And everywhere in the home, lighting was a top priority. “Shadows cause falls,” Knecht says. So his plan meticulously eliminates them by flooding the home with natural light through windows and sun tunnels, including a sun tunnel in every shower. Path lights illuminate the hallway, and the kitchen is outfitted with undercounter lighting.

Often overlooked as an aspect of universal design, home maintenance was a big priority for Knecht, who not only wants to avoid having to deal with home upkeep as he ages, but also doesn’t want the home to be a bother for his daughter, who will take it over after he’s gone.

“Someone tried to talk me into a black shingled roof,” he says. “They look good, but I said no because of all the heat they absorb. I wanted to use white shingles, but those only had a 30-year warranty. So what, in 30 years I’m dead and my daughter is 70 years old and has to worry about putting in a new roof? I don’t think so.” Instead, the home is outfitted with a white metal roof with a 55-year guarantee.

The windows and doors are all done in maintenance-free fiberglass, and the home itself is clad in cement board, “so it will never rot,” Knecht says.

While the home is 4,000 square feet, Knecht estimates that less than 200 of that was added because of universal design features. And while the home hits a higher price range, Palladino says that is due to the extra energy-efficiency features that are included, such as the geothermal system and top-of-the-line insulation. The universal design features, he says, are accessible at just about any price point. “When you compare the cost difference between a standard door and a 36-inch door, you’re talking a difference of $24.”

By Claire Easley,senior editor at Builder.

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Solar Decathlon Homes Offer Livable Floor Plans, Cool Design

November 11th, 2011

The Solar Decathlon student home-design competition is an ideal venue for spotting whiz-bang technologies and cutting-edge innovation, and this year’s crop of houses is no exception.

Sponsored by the Department of Energy, the biennial Decathlon is a program that challenges collegiate teams to design, build, and operate solar-powered houses that are cost-effective, energy-efficient, and attractive.

“The winner of the competition is the team that best blends affordability, consumer appeal, and design excellence with optimal energy production and maximum efficiency,” the agency says.

The 19 teams and their solar-powered houses compete in 10 categories (each worth 100 points) that include engineering, hot-water generation, affordability (a new category this year), market appeal, energy balance, and architecture. Because of the number of categories, it’s not unusual for teams to do poorly in one area and make up for it in another.

This year’s architecture category will be judged by a three-person panel that includes architect Michelle Kaufmann of Michelle Kaufmann Studio in Oakland, Calif., Paul Hutton of Hutton Architecture Studio in Denver, and Bob Schubert, a professor of architecture and associate dean for research in the College of Architecture and Urban Studies at Virginia Tech.

The architectural judges will focus on elements such as the scale and proportion of room and facade features, indoor/outdoor connections, composition, and linking of various house elements; holistic design; and the integration and energy efficiency of electrical and natural light, among other characteristics.

Though all schools employed a number of worthwhile sustainable strategies and cutting-edge architectural explorations, some schools opted for market-driven designs that would appeal to a broader segment of the home-buying population. And many designs were inspired by the regions from whence they came.

Fan-favorite (in the People’s Choice Awards voting) Appalachian State was inspired by traditional Appalachian settlements for its Solar Homestead project, which is composed of six outbuilding modules connected to form the Great Porch—an outdoor living space protected by an 8.2-kilowatt trellis of bifacial solar cells.

Team Maryland’s WaterShed house focuses on protecting watershed environments by managing stormwater runoff. The home “displays harmony between modernity, tradition, and simple building strategies, balancing time-trusted best practices and cutting-edge technological solutions to achieve high efficiency performance in an affordable manner,” the school says.

And Middlebury College  opted for a very recognizable gable roof for its Self-Reliance home. “We have distilled the architecture of the New England farmhouse into a pure gable form,” the school writes. “Tradition guided our design but still allowed us to innovate. We drew primarily upon the gable roof, a regional form, to help us deal with the climatic burden of snow and rain.”

By Nigel F. Maynard

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Optimized Insulation

November 6th, 2011

It wasn’t that long ago that insulation was insulation. Today, thanks in large part to keener competition for buyers, rising energy prices, and stiffer building codes, there are a bevy of products designed to create and improve an actual thermal envelope. And the choice for builders is not just which one to spec, but how to combine them to optimize their respective benefits and achieve higher levels of performance.

That relatively new concept also makes energy-efficient housing more affordable. Builders across all price points can now modify their insulation packages not only to the climate, local code requirements, and the clients’ expectations for comfort and energy costs, but also to the construction budget.

No matter the materials a builder uses to achieve a performance/budget balance, there are two principles that any insulation method must address: Seal up air leaks and retard thermal transfer through the envelope. Here are some practical “best practice” guidelines to help you meet your energy performance goals on time and on budget.

Sidewalls: For wood-framed perimeter walls, building scientists and budget-conscious builders advocate a hybrid approach commonly called “flash-and-batt,” which combines the best combination of air-sealing and insulation technologies to affordably address the thermal envelope.

In a hybrid application, each wood-framed wall cavity receives a 1-inch layer of closed-cell spray foam to seal the joints and block airflow between the studs and the exterior sheathing.

Once the foam cures (usually the same or next day), the less-expensive “batt” layer—which could be fiberglass, cellulose, cotton, or sheep’s wool in a rolled form or various blown-in applications—fills the rest of the cavity to provide the bulk of the thermal resistance value.

One alternative to closed-cell spray foam is to use a water-based, one-part, spray-applied sealant that frames only the joints, rather than coating the entire sheathing surface at the back of the cavity. This approach can further reduce the cost (and mess) of the “flash” stage while purporting to match the air-sealing qualities of spray foam.

Builders in extremely cold climates who want to earn the Energy Star label may also need to apply rigid foam panels to the outside surface of the framed walls, either behind or integrated into the sidewall sheathing, to create a thermal envelope that mitigates the conductivity of the wall framing.

Attic/Roof: While most energy experts call for HVAC equipment to be located within conditioned space, the new housing economy is driving the trend toward smaller square footages. In turn, that’s forcing builders to look above the top plate to run and hide ductwork and HVAC equipment.

Problem is, an unsealed and uninsulated attic space, especially in hot, humid climates, is inhospitable for equipment and ducting to operate efficiently and maintain desired indoor comfort levels.

Open-cell spray foam—a less expensive if slightly less thermally resistant sister of closed-cell foam—applied to the underside of the roof deck from the ridge down to the top plate effectively seals and insulates the attic.
The result is a “semi-conditioned” space that is perhaps only 5-10 degrees warmer than the living areas below, enabling HVAC equipment to operate as intended in an environment that helps rather than hinders energy savings.
But for builders in moderate climates and with the heating and cooling system stationed elsewhere in the footprint, “cathedralizing” may be an unnecessary expense.

Picture-framing the roof truss cavities with a spray-applied sealant to tighten the roof assembly and throwing down a deep bed of blown-in material in the ceiling cavities adequately retards thermal loss from the conditioned living space below, which helps reduce the home’s energy use for heating and cooling even if the attic is to remain unoccupied.

Basements: For the roughly half of all new homes built on a basement or crawlspace, effective insulation and air-sealing application comes down to two choices and also depends somewhat on the end use of the space.

For a conditioned, full-height basement, builders can insulate either side of the perimeter walls with rigid foam insulation panels and spray foam or elastic sealant applied to the joints and the band joist area.

Builders can also insulate the concrete slab, either prior to the pour or on top of it to create what’s called a “floating” floor of a vapor retarder, R-10 foam panels (taped at all joints), and a T&G wood subfloor ready for the owner’s choice of finish. “If you can plan and prep for it, insulating and sealing from the outside is faster and easier,” says Gary Parsons, a fellow in Dow Building Solutions Research and Development.

For occasional-use basements and crawls, filling the floor joists with a batt, blow-in-membrane, or flash-and-batt application and air-sealing the band joist offer more affordable yet very effective thermal values to seal and enclose these areas away from the conditioned living spaces above and perhaps create a semi-conditioned area for duct runs.

Regardless of where and how a builder seals and insulates, Steve Easley, a residential building science consultant and educator in Danville, Calif., advocates adding two in-house inspections—one just before the drywall goes up and another before the exterior cladding is applied—to make sure the building envelope is thoroughly sealed against air and moisture infiltration. “A building inspector may not look that closely,” he says. “But a builder should.”

By Rich Binsacca, contributing editor to Building Products magazine and its website, ebuild.com.

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Green Cottage Stands Out in Recession

November 2nd, 2011

When Idaho builders Scott and Barbara Schriber first explored high-performance home building a few years ago, they realized that in their small, conservative town, they would first have to inform their customers about what green building is—and what it’s not.

“We learned that when you say the word ‘green’ up here, people think it’s about being a tree hugger,” says Barbara, co-owner of Selle Valley Construction. So when she met with local architects, realtors, and potential customers, she focused her message on the financial incentives of energy-efficient homes.

“We wanted to show that with some simple planning, construction techniques, and material choices, any home can be water, energy, and resource efficient without breaking the bank,” she says.

The recession and housing slump of 2009 had led the couple to look for ways to bring in more business. “We realized we had to do something different that would separate us from the rest of the builders in town,” Barbara says.

They built their first NGBS-certified home, dubbed the Red Cottage, on spec and hoped for the best, figuring they could move in if no one wanted to buy it. It features a long list of sustainable products including a heat recovery ventilator, bamboo flooring, wool carpeting, an on-demand hot water, a drip-irrigation system, dual-flush toilets, and WaterSense fixtures.

With a HERS rating of 57, the home is exceptionally well insulated and tightly built using advanced framing techniques. Heat is provided via a mini-split ductless heat pump with a gas fireplace for backup. Winter heating bills average about $45 a month.

FINISHED PRODUCT
The Red Cottage sold six months after completion for $200,000 and—more importantly—helped catch the eye of other like-minded buyers. “It was the first step in our efforts to hopefully broaden this market in our area,” Barbara says.

Selle Valley Construction has since built another NGBS-certified home next door—the Gray Cottage—and six more are either in the works or already completed. By adhering to third-party standards, the company has made a name for itself as a high-quality home builder. In a state with no building department and little local oversight of builders, Selle Valley construction competes against “anyone with a truck and a hammer,” Barbara says.

The Red Cottage helps to prove that a well-built, well-insulated, sustainable home can be cost-efficient. Barbara tells customers to expect a 1% to 3% markup (about $3,000 to $4,000, including the cost of Energy Star and NGBS certifications) compared to a traditionally built home of the same size. (For information about Selle Valley Construction’s green appraisal process, click here.)

“Our homes may cost a bit more, but with a 30-year mortgage amortized, the monthly mortgage increase may be less than the water, sewer, and electricity savings made possible by the efficient features,” she says. “Plus, on average, electricity and utility rates increase at a rate greater than the rate of salary increases, so utility savings are compounded over time.”

The company is now working on other sustainable projects, but the Red Cottage has had the most impact, Barbara says.

“The best part of putting the house out there is now we have proof; we can show the electricity bill and explain the HERS score,” she says. “We can show that these are better-built houses and the weirder this economy gets, the more that’s going to help.”

By Jennifer Goodman, Senior Editor for EcoHome.

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Latest lead paint changes represent wins for remodelers

October 28th, 2011

Despite being in place for 18 months now, the details of the federal government’s lead paint rules continue to change.

The latest updates this summer to the Lead Paint Repair and Renovation Program rules that apply to pre-1978 homes were, all-in-all, a positive for remodelers, with contractors getting some of the changes they wanted from the Environmental Protection Agency.

The NAHB, which has been lobbying Congress and working with the EPA in an attempt to modify the rule, has put together an analysis of the latest changes. Here are five highlights that should be a plus for the industry:

1. No mandatory third-party testing
In probably the biggest development this summer, the EPA agreed not to require third-party, post-project clearance testing.

As part of a settlement with the Sierra Club and other groups, the EPA had proposed that contractors would have to hire a licensed, third-party tester to perform post-project testing on all remodeling jobs. The results would have had to be evaluated by an independent lab.

The EPA was persuaded by trade groups’ arguments (and Congressional pressure) that the new standard would put an undue financial burden on remodelers, and not offer significant benefits to homeowners, especially with the unreliability of most tests currently on the market.

EPA had estimated the new rule would cost about $400 million annually. NAHB had estimated the tests would cost hundreds of dollars, especially burdensome on smaller projects, not to mention the costs of potential project delays from testing.

2. Online training an option
Although the EPA has been allowing online training through various trade associations, including CEDIA and the Oregon Home Builders Association, the modified rule now explicitly states that this is allowable. This will allow remodelers, even in the 12 states that have taken over administration of the rule, to replace the classroom portion of the training with an online version. The hands-on portion of training must still be conducted in person.

3. More testing options
One of the most challenging parts of the implementation of the rule has been the lack of easy-to-use, reliable and inexpensive testing kits. That has made it difficult for homes to test out of the lead-safe work practices, an option under the LRRP rules when there is no lead paint present.

This issue is what prompted U.S. Rep. Denny Rehberg (R-Mont.) to introduce an amendment to a funding bill that defunded EPA’s enforcement of the rules until an effective test could be found. That bill passed the House, but hasn’t been taken up by the Senate.

NAHB had petitioned the EPA to revise the RRP requirements to reflect that lack of effective testing kits. Instead, the EPA opted to expand the rules to allow remodelers to collect paint chips and send them to a third-party lab as an alternative. It is an improvement, but there are only about 100 accredited lab in the country and many states do not have any.

4. Further definition to containment rules
According to NAHB, the standards laid out by EPA for containment of lead paint dust presented potential risks to worker safety and could violate OSHA regulations.

Essentially, the rule now clarifies what efforts need to be taken in windy conditions and to allow contractors more freedom to contain paint dust and chips.

EPA also agreed to keep its definition and standards for HEPA vacuums in line with the original 2008 rules rather than the differing rules proposed under the Sierra Club settlement. That means remodelers that had purchased HEPA vacuums and filters already won’t need to make further investment in equipment. The rules does state, though, that remodelers need to make sure the vacuum is “operated and maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions,” so a record of that maintenance should be kept in case of an EPA audit.

5. New requirements for states
EPA also issued two new guidelines for the states (12 as of this writing) that have taken over administration of the rule from the agency.

The guidelines set the maximum fine a state can levy at $5,000 per violation, bringing it in line with the new EPA levels. States also have to provide procedures and requirements for how accredited remodelers can perform on-the-job training for other individuals performing renovations. The states can also opt to require all contractors working in pre-1978 homes to be accredited. The states have two years to make the changes.

By Jonathan Sweet

www.dvwise.com

8 Steps to Precise Window Installation

October 20th, 2011

It used to be that if the opening was plumb, square, and level, windows were a snap to install. But today, those are the barest basics of window installation, which has become a more precise craft since homes have gotten extremely airtight and manufacturers have shifted more responsibility for failures to the contractor.

Here are eight tips for a better window application:

1. Prep the homeowner as well as you prep the rough opening. For renovation projects, before you tear out an old window—and before you settle on a hard-and-fast estimate—clue the homeowner in to the possibility that the rough window opening will need repairs that could increase the overall price of the job.

Jeff Lowinski, vice president of technical services for the Window and Door Manufacturers Association, says he’s found hidden rot, decay, and termites in rough openings that neither the contractor nor the homeowner knew were there until the window was gone.

“Who’s going to pay for it?” Lowinski asks. “If the installer didn’t know it was there, he didn’t estimate it. Make that [contingency] part of the contract.”

2. Repair the rough opening. Lowinski says he’s heard more than one sad tale of chronic call-backs after an installer forced a good replacement window into a bad opening.

“You could put the best window unit in and it will fail if the rough opening isn’t sound,” he says.

The usual culprit: pressure to keep labor costs low. “Homeowners are shopping for the absolute best price that they can get, and that forces the installers to try to do the work for the absolute minimum cost,” says Lowinski. “Sometimes, that means cutting quality and cutting material.”

3. Bolster the barriers in new construction and replacement work. To perform effectively, every wall, roof, window, or other structure that separates the outdoors from the indoors needs barriers against five types of intrusion: water, moisture, air, thermal, and vapor. So when there’s a problem with a window, says John Jervis, managing director of the Window Fitters Guild, it’s usually because the installer skipped or skimped on one of those barriers.

He says too many installers neglect to connect the barriers in the wall to the corresponding barriers in the window. For example, a window with argon or krypton between the panes will prevent heat loss. Likewise, insulation in the wall has thermal properties. But if even a small space between the two is uninsulated, it can create a draft.

“It’s like a concert,” Jervis notes. “Every instrument has to play its part to get beautiful music.”

4. Flash furiously. The most common mistake among window installers is flashing improperly—or not at all, says Ken Modeen, the former owner of a Minneapolis window and door installation company who works as an architectural representative. Tighter homes and the increased use of absorbent OSB sheathing mean water needs a route to exit—quickly.

Modeen recommends that the installer create an angled, beveled sill as part of a watershed system around the window and within the opening before the window is set so water can flow to the outside.

Related gaffes: Skipping the shims and relying on the nail fin to serve as flashing.

5. Spare some caulk. Window manufacturers typically call for caulk on side and top flanges—but not on the bottom. Installers who caulk the sill might believe they’re preventing water from entering, but what they’re doing is keeping it from escaping if it seeps in elsewhere through the window or the wall.

An uncaulked sill won’t let water in because it can’t flow upward. But a window sealed from the outside on four sides leaves no place for downward—flowing water to drain.

6. Look around. If the house you’re working on is near water or out in the open, wind will whip its windows. Modeen says inexperienced contractors sometimes use the nail fin as the window’s final attachment to the home—even on the second or third story of a building in a windy location.

Instead, he says, it’s important to get structural anchorage by screwing through the window jamb and into the 2-by-4 at the side of the opening
7. Measure twice. It’s the oldest rule in the industry, and when you’re replacing a window during a renovation, it’s one of the most important.

If the old window isn’t coming out until the new one arrives, you’ll be forced to measure the window without seeing the rough opening, which means you’ll need to estimate the window size as precisely as possible.

You should: a) Enroll in manufacturer-sponsored training to become an expert at measurement; b) Measure the top, middle, and bottom of every window so you’ll know if the opening is plumb and square; and c) Measure in inches only rather than switching between feet and inches, as it’s too easy to interpret “3.6″ as “36″ when you decipher notes you scribbled at a job site later in the day.

8. Build a benchmark. The Window Fitters Guild, a part of the American Window and Door Institute in North Palm Beach, Fla., recommends that residential contractors take a page from commercial builders and finish a single window, and then have the builder, architect, and manufacturer sign off on it before installing any more.

Called a “pilot window,” it can be used as a benchmark by lower-skilled laborers, who can duplicate the installation process for the rest of the home’s windows. Jervis says some manufacturers will send specially trained installers to put in pilot windows. — Sharon O’Malley is a contributing editor to Building Products magazine and its website, ebuild.com.

www.dvwise.com