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5 Ways to Avoid Common Roofing Pitfalls

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Through work with builders of all sizes in the National Housing Quality (NHQ) Certification Program, the NAHB Research Center has discovered several common mistakes and process omissions made on the jobsite that can jeopardize the quality and durability of typical, asphalt-shingle roof installations. Here are five areas builders should focus on to avoid those mistakes:

1. Follow all manufacturers’ installation instructions. Installation protocols and code requirements can vary significantly from one type, style or brand of shingle to another. For example, starter-course instructions, nailing-pattern requirements and roof-coverage area often vary from product to product. Unfortunately, instructions often get overlooked or discarded altogether during the construction process. Failing to follow instructions can lead to durability problems and can possibly void the manufacturer’s warranty, leaving the builder bearing the full cost of any needed repair or replacement. Here are three simple ways builders can reinforce the importance of following installation instructions:

•Take the time to read the instructions and quiz your crew on proper installation protocols. Regardless of how many times they’ve installed those materials, they may have been doing something wrong all along and just didn’t know it.
•Make sure all current installation instructions are on file with the jobsite superintendent and affixed to the scope of work given to the roofing-trade crew leader.
•Regularly take stock of installation instructions on file on the jobsite to be sure they are the most current for the type and style of material you’re using.

2. Create a comprehensive job plan. A builder’s goal with any element of a job should always be to do it right the first time to avoid costly delays. The key to getting it right is creating a comprehensive job plan for every type of work on the site. Roofing is no exception. Here are three tips for creating an effective roofing job plan:

•Carefully lay out the job before it begins. Place evenly spaced chalk lines along the roofing underlayment to give the installer a visible guide for every course.
•Before the roofing work begins, decide on valley style and ridge and gable end treatment, and be explicit about those details on the plans and scope of work.
•Periodically confirm the takeoff and make sure there is a sufficient quantity of shingles from the same dye lot on the jobsite. Running a few square feet short at the end of the job and filling in with shingles that don’t quite match is a rookie mistake that reflects poorly on your reputation for quality.

3. Get the fastening details right. Builders often specify the type and style of shingle for the roof, but they rarely choose the type and gauge of fasteners for those shingles. Using the wrong fasteners can lead to wind damage and result in a red tag by the code inspector.
The type of fastener required for the job is called out in the manufacturer’s installation instructions, as well as in the local building code. If you have a personal preference for either nails or staples, make sure that detail is included on the approved plans and specifications for a given project, as well as in the roofer’s scope of work. If staples are to be substituted for roofing nails, make sure the acceptable wire gauge and staple length are clearly stated, as well.

 
Surprisingly, one of the most common mistakes builders make on roofing projects is failing to follow installation instructions. Quizzing the crew on proper installation protocols and keeping current installation instructions on file with the jobsite superintendent are two ways builders can help avoid mistakes in the field.
Through work with builders of all sizes in the National Housing Quality (NHQ) Certification Program, the NAHB Research Center has discovered several common mistakes and process omissions made on the jobsite that can jeopardize the quality and durability of typical, asphalt-shingle roof installations. Here are five areas builders should focus on to avoid those mistakes:

1. Follow all manufacturers’ installation instructions. Installation protocols and code requirements can vary significantly from one type, style or brand of shingle to another. For example, starter-course instructions, nailing-pattern requirements and roof-coverage area often vary from product to product. Unfortunately, instructions often get overlooked or discarded altogether during the construction process. Failing to follow instructions can lead to durability problems and can possibly void the manufacturer’s warranty, leaving the builder bearing the full cost of any needed repair or replacement. Here are three simple ways builders can reinforce the importance of following installation instructions:

•Take the time to read the instructions and quiz your crew on proper installation protocols. Regardless of how many times they’ve installed those materials, they may have been doing something wrong all along and just didn’t know it.
•Make sure all current installation instructions are on file with the jobsite superintendent and affixed to the scope of work given to the roofing-trade crew leader.
•Regularly take stock of installation instructions on file on the jobsite to be sure they are the most current for the type and style of material you’re using.
2. Create a comprehensive job plan. A builder’s goal with any element of a job should always be to do it right the first time to avoid costly delays. The key to getting it right is creating a comprehensive job plan for every type of work on the site. Roofing is no exception. Here are three tips for creating an effective roofing job plan:

——————————————————————————–
Builders often specify the type and style of shingle for the roof, but they rarely choose
the type and gauge of fasteners for those shingles. Using the wrong fasteners can lead
to wind damage and result in a red tag by the code inspector.
——————————————————————————–
 •Carefully lay out the job before it begins. Place evenly spaced chalk lines along the roofing underlayment to give the installer a visible guide for every course.
•Before the roofing work begins, decide on valley style and ridge and gable end treatment, and be explicit about those details on the plans and scope of work.
•Periodically confirm the takeoff and make sure there is a sufficient quantity of shingles from the same dye lot on the jobsite. Running a few square feet short at the end of the job and filling in with shingles that don’t quite match is a rookie mistake that reflects poorly on your reputation for quality.

3. Get the fastening details right. Builders often specify the type and style of shingle for the roof, but they rarely choose the type and gauge of fasteners for those shingles. Using the wrong fasteners can lead to wind damage and result in a red tag by the code inspector.
The type of fastener required for the job is called out in the manufacturer’s installation instructions, as well as in the local building code. If you have a personal preference for either nails or staples, make sure that detail is included on the approved plans and specifications for a given project, as well as in the roofer’s scope of work. If staples are to be substituted for roofing nails, make sure the acceptable wire gauge and staple length are clearly stated, as well.

4. Adjust nail guns for the job. As the builder, you may not own and use nail guns on the jobsite, but it’s your responsibility to make sure they are adjusted to the proper settings to provide adequate, consistent fastener penetration. Too little pressure leaves the crown of the nail or staple too high, creating a bulge in the profile of the shingle. Too much pressure and the nail or staple can crush the shingle or even be driven through it.

If a nail gun or automatic stapler is to be used, make sure the air pressure is correct. Also, because air pressure can change over the course of a day, the compressor should be checked periodically to ensure air pressure remains within an acceptable range. Ask your trade contractor to document all air pressure checks and adjustments during the course of the day.

5. Conduct a personal inspection of the completed work. An inspection from both the roof level and ground will ensure that the quality of workmanship and aesthetic details are what you expect. As part of the inspection, you should:

•Scan for holes in shingles that were created during the installation of cleats or other temporary framing members. Shingles with holes need to be replaced, not simply filled with roofer’s mastic.
•Make sure the paper and the shingles in the roof valley are secured to the roof sheathing, not suspended above it.
•Look for reverse shingling, especially near a chimney or a plumbing stack. Water flows downhill and shingles need to let it flow, not catch it.
•Look through the trusses or ceiling framing from the underside of the roof to confirm if nails or staples were used in compliance with your specifications. This inspection can also confirm if sufficient quantities of fasteners were used and spacing guidelines were followed.
Document all required corrections and agree with the roofing contractor on when a follow-up inspection can be scheduled. Don’t assume the corrections will be made; always re-inspect. Document all inspections and make sure you and the roofer sign off on the final report.

Specific scopes of work and inspection checklists are two key elements of a documented quality management system adopted and implemented by quality-minded builders across the country. Check out the NAHB Research Center’s Web site for more information on implementing quality management systems for both builders and trade partners.

Created in 1964, the NAHB Research Center is a full-service product commercialization company that strives to make housing more durable, affordable and efficient. The Research Center provides public and private clients with an unrivaled depth of understanding of the housing industry and access to its business leaders.

by Don Carr

http://www.housingzone.com/custombuilder/article/ca6718957.html?nid=2822&rid=6397697

www.dvwise.com

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Posted in 2010 DV Wise | 3 Comments »

The 20 Healthiest Housing Markets for 2010

Friday, February 26th, 2010

Housing economists have long held that the housing rebound, when it comes, will be uneven. The markets that benefit first will be the ones with the strongest core dynamics; places where house prices never got out of hand, cities where a diverse and progressive employment base drives job creation, towns that continue to draw population despite the economic recession.

Now that the housing recovery is nearly upon us–most economists expect a full-fledged recovery to begin this year–it’s time to figure out which markets will be the front-runners. Based on last year’s performance, especially the level of building permits pulled in the fourth quarter, it’s already clear that some markets are poised to grow at a faster pace this year than others in 2010.

Green shoots may be sprouting in markets throughout the country, but which markets will flower first? That’s the question we attempt to answer with the Builder Market Health Index, compiled by Hanley Wood Market Intelligence, our market research arm. Market Intelligence (MI) first input 2009 data and 2010 projections for household formations, resale values, and job and income growth. Then, after sprinkling in some secret sauce to weight these drivers, it ranked by health the top 100 housing markets (determined by permits pulled in 2009).

Not surprisingly, many of the markets that topped our 2009 list are on the 2010 leader board, including most of the major markets in Texas, where low development costs kept a lid on house prices during the boom, and strong local economies provided a cushion from the blow of a national recession.

But Lone Star markets were eclipsed this time around by some relatively hot markets in the Carolinas, which accounted for seven of the top 20 spots. Many of the major cities along the Mid-Atlantic seaboard continue to benefit from a strong influx of people drawn by a comfortable way of life, affordable housing, and growing employment prospects.

As with last year, markets that hit the trifecta–having within their borders a state capital and a big university along with a diversified economy–dominate our list of hottest markets. A strong base of government employment, whether it be from the state or the military, has helped stabilize some markets through the housing recession. In many cases, the government is the biggest employer among the 20 markets on our list.

We present this data with one big caveat. These markets may be healthier than others, but they aren’t healthy in the way they were during the housing boom, when it was common to find rising population, employment, and income. Virtually every housing market still has at least one blemish. And for that reason only two received a rating of 50 or more, indicating they are truly healthy. That’s an improvement, though; only one scored 50 or higher last year.

Hanley Wood Market Intelligence, which took into consideration forecasts from Moody’s Economy.com and other sources, is looking for several of these healthiest markets to break out this year. A few of them witnessed dramatic increases in building permits pulled in the fourth quarter of last year, momentum that is expected to carry over into 2010. Several of the markets on this list are poised for double-digit growth. Read on.

3. Charlotte-Gastonia-Concord, NC-SC

Market Health Indicator: 48.0

2009 Total Building Permits: 7,607

2010 Building Permit Forecast: 7,442

Home to 1.77 million people, Charlotte has been one of the strongest housing markets in the country during the last three years. Housing prices in this banking center (Wachovia and Bank of America have big presences here) were pretty stable last year, barely inching down. Income levels actually rose in 2009. And households continued to form at a relatively high rate, compared to the rest of the country. The job picture should brighten in 2010; the area is projected to add 2% more jobs. Single-family permit activity began rising in the fourth quarter–it was up 20% over the year-ago period–despite a glut of downtown condos that have been converted to rentals.

By:Boyce Thompson

http://www.builderonline.com/local-markets/the-20-healthiest-housing-markets-for-2010.aspx?cid=BLDR100225002&page=1

www.dvwise.com

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Posted in 2010 DV Wise | 1 Comment »

Even Smart Builders Continue to Neglect the Attic

Thursday, February 25th, 2010

Chances are that you design and build your houses with a vented attic. This is the most preferred (and affordable) method of construction for most builders, and if you’re in the right climate, it’s perfectly fine. But a growing number of researchers say many builders aren’t doing a good enough job to make the space energy-efficient.

I recently discovered how important the attic space is to the overall energy efficiency of a house when I had an assessment done on my small, c. 1975 three-story townhouse in Hyattsville, Md.

My house has a three-year-old SEER 14 HVAC system, insulated replacement vinyl windows, and fairly decent (preexisting) fiberglass insulation. With three months to go in 2009, my electric bill is already $1,655.90. If history is any guide, by the end of the year I will have paid $1,865. And this is with a relatively mild Washington summer.

It’s been a mystery that my electricity bill continued to rise even though I have taken measures to help reduce it. A price hike by my utility provider, Potomac Electric Power Co., is one part of the explanation. But recently I found another: My unsealed and uninsulated attic was literally sucking conditioned air out of the house and money right out of my wallet.

This is partly the reason I’m uncomfortable in my house, why my house is dusty (despite my fastidious efforts), and why my electricity bill for one person was way out of control, says Dan Robinette, a comfort advisor at Minnick’s, a Laurel, Md.-based heating and air-conditioning firm that participates in Maryland’s Home Performance with Energy Star program.

“Most attics are under-insulated and poorly sealed,” says Robinette, who did the assessment of my house. “This is a big problem when it comes to the comfort of the home. These two things affect everything from the temperature in the upper levels, to the air quality, to the number of times your A/C is running in a day. So with a little time and materials and you can get that attic sealed up, insulated, and be on your way to a happy home.”

Robinette’s recommendation? Seal the attic and have 13 inches inches of cellulose blown into the space, which is what I did.

“Air sealing and insulation have a large impact [on a house],” says Amber Wood, program manager for energy efficiency at the NAHB Research Center in Upper Marlboro, Md. “Before anything, you have to seal all penetrations into the attic such as electric boxes, ceiling fans, knee walls, and attic openings, but you have to make sure the soffit vent can ventilate or it can lead to moisture problems.”

Sealing the attic and blowing in insulation—either cellulose or fiberglass—establish the house’s thermal envelope, help prevent air leakage, and help maintain the temperature of the conditioned space below.

“In cold weather, warm air is continually rising,” Denver-based insulation manufacturer Johns Manville says on its Website. “Leaks into the attic allow the expensive, heated air to escape into the attic, while at the same time drawing in cold air to displace it from the basement or other exterior leaks. This continuous air movement makes the home feel drafty and raises energy bills. By sealing attic air leaks, you plug the escape route of rising air and effectively stop the chimney effect.”

Other common sources of attic leaks that Johns Manville says should be checked include: areas between floor joists and behind kneewalls, the attic hatch, wiring holes, plumbing vents, recessed lights, and the furnace flue.

The sealing and insulation of my attic came in at a shade under $1,400. Robinette says—and other consultants agree—that this is typically what it costs. (During my assessment, he also discovered that my house has severely leaky ducts and proposed AeroSeal treatment to have them sealed from the inside out, which he estimated would cost another $1,900.)

André Desjarlais, who manages the building envelopes program at Oak Ridge National Laboratory in Oak Ridge, Tenn., says Robinette made the right call on my attic. In fact, Desjarlais says people don’t realize just how important the treatment of the attic space is in the overall energy efficiency of a home.

“There are lots of stats,” Desjarlais says. “But let’s take the average home with 2.3 people. Half of the energy bill for that home is used to heat and cool it. Half of the remaining [portion] is due to energy losses through the attic.”

It would be logical to assume that under-insulated attics is a problem largely for older homes, and in some ways this would be an accurate assumption. Older homes tend to be leaky and poorly insulated, and some construction techniques from yesterday may not be appropriate for how homes are built today. “Yes, the older [the homes] get, the worse the problem is,” Robinette says.

But Mike Barcik, senior research engineer and director of technical services at the Southface Energy Institute in Atlanta, says attic inadequacies aren’t only relegated to old homes; many new homes suffer from the same ailments. “I would say 90 percent of all existing homes need some improvement and are probably under-built, including those built two years ago,” Barcik says. “I might even up that to 98 percent.”

The problem with new homes, Barcik continues, is that building inspectors are largely focused on safety, and so a home’s energy usage gets overlooked. “The energy code is a fantastic code if it’s enforced, but it’s not enforced in many states,” he explains. “We have done blower tests to prove it.”

Neglecting the attic seems unthinkable given that it’s relatively cheap to address during construction of the house. Wood says, for example, that a builder may pay about $100 to $500 more in material to seal and insulate an attic. “It’s not that expensive,” she says. “They can do it either with foam and fiberglass, or they can use caulk. Caulking takes more time, but it’s inexpensive.” So the tradeoff is a $500 upfront cost compared to the $1,400 I paid to retrofit my house? That sure sounds like an investment that would be worth considering for new-home buyers and their builders.

by Nigel Maynard

Nigel Maynard is senior editor for products at BUILDER magazine.

http://www.builderonline.com/energy-efficientconstruction/even-smart-builders-continue-to-neglect-the-attic.aspx

www.dvwise.com

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